Habring² was founded by husband-and-wife duo Richard and Maria Habring, creators of relatively under-the-radar watches from the small town of Völkermarkt, Austria. Richard Habring is known for developing several notable complications during his formative years at , including the split-second Doppelchronograph. The timepieces that leave the Austrian manufacture are attractively priced, cleverly constructed complications.

Limited to just 50 pieces, this Erwin-LAB 01 is a watch born out of the collaboration between Habring² and . The latter was founded by , a patrician of the watch industry; a jury member of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and Managing Director at Timezone. Known for his passion for watches, rather than for brands, the creation of the LAB was his way of supporting and collaborating with some of the artisanal, independent watchmakers that he admires.

With a deadbeat seconds mechanism and a polished bronze case, the Erwin-LAB01 for Massena LAB, combines the design features of a mid-century dress watch with thoroughly modern horology. 

The dial takes its cues from early 1930s 'Calatrava'-style time-only watches, apparent through the gilt sector layout and stepped bezel. The “scientific” dial (with sectors for legibility) has an understated feel, with gilt printing for the chapter ring. The raised bronze-coloured markings, recessed into the glossy black dial, add an interesting level of depth to the smoothness of the lacquer finish. The leaf hands are gold-plated brass, matching the numerals. 

The 38.5mm case is made of a highly-polished, aluminum-bronze alloy, designed to feel more like a precious metal. The make-up of the alloy creates a rich, developing patina as the surface oxidises with time, instead of the greenish hue found on many aged bronze watch cases. With this example, the bronze has already started to reveal this, most notably on the case sides. 

This time-only Erwin LAB 01 is powered by Habring²’s in-house A11MS movement - all developed, manufactured and assembled in Austria. The architecture of the movement is based on the Valjoux 7750, though the display-back reveals many of Habring²’s technical and aesthetic refinements. The key feature is the patented, deadbeat seconds mechanism, which ticks in one-second steps, driven by a gilded wheel and click-spring, visible in the centre of the movement. It features 21 jewels, Amagnetic escapement with Carl Haas balance spring and KIF shock-proofing, beating at a rate of 28,800 vph (4Hz), with a 48-hour power reserve. 

A prototype Erwin-LAB 01 for Massena LAB was recently sold, in May 2019, at Phillips in Geneva, for an impressive CHF 31,250 ($30,890 at the time), with all proceeds going to charity. 

This watch comes with its original, Italian-made leather strap and matching bronze tang buckle, made by Austrian rifle-maker Werner Bartolot. 

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.

Closer look